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Hight CPU Idle Temps
[fr31ns]Karrde
The Handy Murse


Posts: 2,655
Joined: May 2008
#1
10-05-2010, 02:15 AM

Ok, so my new build has a core i7 950 3.06 ghtz.  Idle temps with the stock cooler as reported in BIOS are 54.5.  Way too high obviously.  I've reseated the heat sink several times to no change.  I'm guessing the HS is just crap along with intel's retarded mounting system (plastic pegs that you press into holes).

1. Most reliable method for removing thermal paste?
2. Most effective brand of thermal paste?
3. How's something like this look?  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.as...6835103055
4. Tell me I'm not going to need to dissassemble everything just to attatch the back plate.


<+Karrde> welp, time to learn some basic patterning skills
<@Negate> 12121212121212121212
<@Negate> there is a simple pattern
<+Karrde> I changed my mind.  Gonna cosplay as a gay demon from hell and get negate raped instead XD
<+Caffeine`work> Karrde: Gay demon? Why would you need to cosplay just go as yourself
<+FlyingMongoose> Caffeine`work: Karrde would actually have to tone it down some.
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Didzo
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#2
10-05-2010, 03:03 AM

Quote:Karrde link=topic=5033.msg177085#msg177085 date=1286262916]
Ok, so my new build has a core i7 950 3.06 ghtz.  Idle temps with the stock cooler as reported in BIOS are 54.5.  Way too high obviously.  I've reseated the heat sink several times to no change.  I'm guessing the HS is just crap along with intel's retarded mounting system (plastic pegs that you press into holes).

1. Most reliable method for removing thermal paste?
2. Most effective brand of thermal paste?
3. How's something like this look?  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.as...6835103055
4. Tell me I'm not going to need to dissassemble everything just to attatch the back plate.

The i7 runs hot.

What case do you have? Some have holes in the mobo mounting plate so you don't have to take everything out.


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CaffeinePowered
Mad Hatter
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#3
10-05-2010, 05:09 AM

What didzo said, where is your case sitting as well?

You can have an awesome heatsink but unless you can vent that heat away from the case it wont do much...


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[fr31ns]Karrde
The Handy Murse


Posts: 2,655
Joined: May 2008
#4
10-05-2010, 07:16 AM

Yeah the i7 *does* run hot, but 54.5 C at idle on BIOS screen is nuts.  And the case actually sits on my desk with plenty of space in all directions.


<+Karrde> welp, time to learn some basic patterning skills
<@Negate> 12121212121212121212
<@Negate> there is a simple pattern
<+Karrde> I changed my mind.  Gonna cosplay as a gay demon from hell and get negate raped instead XD
<+Caffeine`work> Karrde: Gay demon? Why would you need to cosplay just go as yourself
<+FlyingMongoose> Caffeine`work: Karrde would actually have to tone it down some.
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Vandamguy
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#5
10-05-2010, 07:45 AM

1: isopropyl alcohol + paper towel, or kleenex, softer is better.
2: Arctic silver
3: looks fine surf has one i think if you want first hand knowledge,
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.asp...6835103065 is what I put on my dads and the idle temps were around 30. quiet too i remeber the stock intel for my CPU was a tornado i hated it ://.
4: your case has a decent size hole behidn the cpu you may not have to. it would probably make it easier.

afterthought: the v8 looks like overkill and replacing a noisy fan in a center mounted config like that would be a pain in the ass
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Didzo
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#6
10-05-2010, 02:08 PM

Yep, the hole in the mobo mounting plate should be big enough for the backplate.

Also, I'm going to say that you should totally go for the overkill V8. Why?


Because it looks pretty damn cool and you do have a window to show it off.





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Surf314
Seriously, this week I'll play PS
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#7
10-05-2010, 04:12 PM

V8 plus arctic silver is amazing, now that it is curing I sometimes idle at 29 degrees.


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Didzo
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#8
10-05-2010, 09:50 PM

brb idling at lower than room temperature


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[fr31ns]Karrde
The Handy Murse


Posts: 2,655
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#9
10-06-2010, 12:01 AM

Decided to give the Corsair H50 contained liquid system a go.  Only marginally more expensive than V8, and working like a dream.  Been idling 31, 32.  Wondering if I should alter my fan setup.  Right now I've got a 120 mm intake on top back over the H50 radiator (recommended), 1 front bottom 230 mm intake, 1 230 mm exhaust on top and 1 230 mm intake on the left side.  My video card sits right at mid level on the side one.  I'm tempted to reverse it to exhaust instead of intake.  Thoughts?


<+Karrde> welp, time to learn some basic patterning skills
<@Negate> 12121212121212121212
<@Negate> there is a simple pattern
<+Karrde> I changed my mind.  Gonna cosplay as a gay demon from hell and get negate raped instead XD
<+Caffeine`work> Karrde: Gay demon? Why would you need to cosplay just go as yourself
<+FlyingMongoose> Caffeine`work: Karrde would actually have to tone it down some.
Reply
Didzo
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#10
10-06-2010, 12:23 AM

Quote:Karrde link=topic=5033.msg177240#msg177240 date=1286341294]
Decided to give the Corsair H50 contained liquid system a go.  Only marginally more expensive than V8, and working like a dream.  Been idling 31, 32.  Wondering if I should alter my fan setup.  Right now I've got a 120 mm intake on top back over the H50 radiator (recommended), 1 front bottom 230 mm intake, 1 230 mm exhaust on top and 1 230 mm intake on the left side.  My video card sits right at mid level on the side one.  I'm tempted to reverse it to exhaust instead of intake.  Thoughts?

I am inclined to agree.

Your front and side fans do the intake, and the top one is an exhaust. If you put it on exhaust, you'll have 2 intake and 2 exhaust (like the case had before), as opposed to 3 intake and 1 exhaust.


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Kirby
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#11
10-06-2010, 09:15 AM

I've found a good rule of thumb is to keep intakes to the front and left of the case and exhausts to the rear and top. That way your drives will get the coldest air, and they're generally cooler than the other stuff, so they won't pre-heat the air too much, and vast majority of PSU's have intake fans inside the case now, so intakes at the rear of the case are probably just killing your airflow and turning the inside into a retarded air-jousting match. Keeping exhausts to the rear will promote faster airflow throughout the case with the PSU and video cards also venting out.


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[fr31ns]Karrde
The Handy Murse


Posts: 2,655
Joined: May 2008
#12
10-06-2010, 11:27 AM

Well this cooler generally works best by having intake blow over the radiator to which the fan is connected.  I suppose I could just experiment.


<+Karrde> welp, time to learn some basic patterning skills
<@Negate> 12121212121212121212
<@Negate> there is a simple pattern
<+Karrde> I changed my mind.  Gonna cosplay as a gay demon from hell and get negate raped instead XD
<+Caffeine`work> Karrde: Gay demon? Why would you need to cosplay just go as yourself
<+FlyingMongoose> Caffeine`work: Karrde would actually have to tone it down some.
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Didzo
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#13
10-06-2010, 04:09 PM

Quote:Karrde link=topic=5033.msg177284#msg177284 date=1286382459]
Well this cooler generally works best by having intake blow over the radiator to which the fan is connected.  I suppose I could just experiment.

You could also buy a second 120mm fan and create a push-pull config on the radiator.



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[fr31ns]Karrde
The Handy Murse


Posts: 2,655
Joined: May 2008
#14
10-06-2010, 08:32 PM

Yeah I know.  Most reviewers said that was more or less overkill.


<+Karrde> welp, time to learn some basic patterning skills
<@Negate> 12121212121212121212
<@Negate> there is a simple pattern
<+Karrde> I changed my mind.  Gonna cosplay as a gay demon from hell and get negate raped instead XD
<+Caffeine`work> Karrde: Gay demon? Why would you need to cosplay just go as yourself
<+FlyingMongoose> Caffeine`work: Karrde would actually have to tone it down some.
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